California Dreaming (and Eating)
Travel rituals, tacos, and time away
Hello from California!
I’m writing to you from my grandparents’ dining room table (you can get to know my grandma more in this conversation). I’ve long been a kitchen table worker and am so grateful I could move TNHS HQ cross country for a couple weeks.
Flying was strange after so long and packing took way longer—I’m out of practice. One nice thing about this trip is spending a few days each in different spots. I love the chance to get into a mini routine while traveling. At a wedding in Mexico City in 2017, I almost filled a punchcard at the coffeeshop across the street from our Airbnb. I can never turn down a walk to get coffee, especially when it’s 66 degrees and sunny. I’m still working out here, but trying to take it easy. As we head into the unofficial start of summer, I hope you have a chance to do the same.
Now, let’s dive in:
Something to cook:
I made grilled cheese for Dale and me for lunch before we left, using mayo instead of butter to get a golden crust. The cast iron is great for making grilled cheese, of course. Triangle cuts only.
Teal and I made dinner our first night here: zucchini chips with a light batter of seltzer and flour and a miso stirfry from Deliciously Ella. You could also do the chips in the oven, but they get way crisper fried. We served them with lime juice, flakey salt, sesame seeds, and a sriracha mayo. So good with a hard kombucha from JuneShine.
Grandma welcomed us last night with a southwestern tart she’s made for years. It’s a spiced, flakey crust filled with black beans, corn, peppers, and melted cheese. She served it with sour cream, a salad full of fresh California strawberries and Grandmom Bessie’s (my great-great grandmother) apple cake for dessert.
Something to order:
Julia and I hit up the one two punch of drinks at Tuffet and pizza (and oysters) at Pizzette. If you time it right, you can hit happy hour at both spots (we didn’t manage that).
On Wednesday, we celebrated Julianne’s birthday in true New York fashion. It’s an itinerary I would repeat any day. We started the day at Astro, a fantastic diner, where a server presented pickles and coleslaw with a candle (unprompted and perfect since Julianne doesn’t love sweets). We had perfect diner breakfasts (get the potatoes well done) and then went to the MOMA during the hottest part of the day (you have to get a timed ticket so it’s not that crowded inside). We wound our way up to Central Park, picking up iced coffee along the way. In the park, we witnessed a proposal in the rowboats and heard some live music. Then we walked east for drinks and dinner at the Penrose with surprise guest Hillary. The Penrose has excellent cocktails (the elderflower and strawberry gin and tonic!) and really good food (start with fried pickles and the kale artichoke dip). Watch a recap of the day here, it was really special.
In LA, we got lots of morning coffee at Farmshop (where I snapped the berries at the top). It’s expensive, delicious, and very LA (I ordered a blueberry muffin and was offered gluten free, vegan, or regular versions). Their breakfast burrito was so good: eggs, mushrooms, kale, and sweet potato. We added avocado and hot sauce at home with Teal.
We brought takeout from Mizlala to Brooke’s house on Friday night to hang with her, Jon, and Beckett. She has a lovely backyard and the food was really good. I especially liked the fried artichokes and the labneh wrap.
I wonder how catering will change due to Covid. We went to an outdoor housewarming party for Teal’s friend and there was a taco stand from Tacos 1986 with freshly made tortillas. I’m still thinking about their mushroom tacos (ask for the hot sauce and salsa verde) and they told me you can order off menu quesadillas with flour tortillas. Individual tacos felt a lot better than sharing a cheese plate with strangers, even though everyone was vaccinated.
Something to read:
It’s time to abolish corporate food festivals
How Dirt Candy loses money on a $14 sandwich
Meet Atlanta’s food truck scholar
I’m very picky about Grub Street diets and I liked Bim Adewunmi’s very much.
Netflix’s ‘High on the Hog’ showcases Black people’s vital contributions to American food (I keep linking articles about this show in the hopes that you’ll watch it starting May 26th)
Dr. Jessica B. Harris on the African diaspora in food and filming in Benin
Why Somali fried dumplings deserve a place on your table and in your heart
Meet The Small Business Owners And Workers Who Actually Had A Profitable Pandemic
Violence Against Black Women Is Still Being Ignored and Forgotten
The party I attended had picpoul de pinet as the white wine and it was so good. Madison wrote more about picpoul this week.
TikTok, the fastest place on Earth to become a food star (some of my favorite food creators on the app)
Related: How Viral recipes shut out BIPOC creators
Here for Yiddish in a headline: A New Jersey Deli Copied Russ & Daughters’ Signature Style. Meshuggaas Ensued.
Questions are back this week! Inspired by the breakfast burrito I had yesterday, I want to know what’s in your dream burrito (it can be for breakfast or not). I love a chipotle breakfast burrito from the West and the sweet potato burrito from now closed Honest Tom’s in Philly helped get me through college. Reply to this email with your favorite burritos!
What’s else is happening with TNHS?
Paid subscribers will get a bonus issue on Thursday and get personalized recommendations at any time as well as discounts on cooking classes.
My dad and I are teaming up for a Father’s Day class on June 17th. Grab your tickets here and bring a guest for free.
Erica and I did some major menu planning for our summer meal prep club. The first class, on June 27th, is summer BBQ themed. Sign up for all 4 for just $99!
Next week’s free newsletter (aka what you’re reading now) will arrive on Tuesday due to the long weekend.
xo, Abigail