Countdown to Spring
Plus, the problem with Substack
Hi friends,
Welcome back to This Needs Hot Sauce. After a delightfully warm week, we’re back to chilly temperatures (it’s 27 degrees as I write this). I’m eager for spring and more chances for outdoor socializing. I’m also excited for Thursday’s quesadilla class, where we’ll make one of my all time favorite meals (plus guacamole). As a special treat, you can bring a friend to this class for free. It will prompt you to enter their email after you sign up. A virtual dinner party awaits. I also added a post-Passover challah class with lots of breaks (it’s totally doable if you are wfh and don’t have a meeting).
On a more serious note, I’m nearing my three year freelance anniversary (thanks to Kelsey’s newsletter, I’m thinking about how to celebrate it). Substack has been a huge part of my freelance career. I moved This Needs Hot Sauce here in May 2018 from Tinyletter, have spoken on multiple panels hosted by the company, attended in person events to meet other newsletter writers, and last year, I received a one time $2,500 grant from the company, which was extremely helpful as my income was affected by Covid. I’ve long been frustrated that Substack seems to spend most of its resources on luring white men with large platforms to it, supporting them with advances and more (I spoke about this in an event for the company).
Recently, Substack has shared the details of how it does this, through a program called Substack Pro. You can’t apply to it and the recipients are not public. Troublingly, a number of the recipients are transphobic writers, the cohort that rails against woke culture. A number of trans writers have detailed the issues on Twitter. Jude Ellison Sady Doyle is leaving Substack and wrote a final issue that is 100% worth a read. Substack claims it is not a media company, but there is editorial judgement at play that’s very dangerous. This quote, from CEO Hamish McKenzie’s blog post is a real red flag, “No writer who says anything important is universally loved; and in fact, sometimes those who engender the fiercest opposition are the ones most deserving of support.” This quote does not refer to their support to underrepresented writers, but people who go on and on about cancel culture, etc.
Every tech company I use has issues (my biggest issue with Instagram is Facebook’s ownership, I try to avoid Amazon as much as possible, and so on), but this really troubles me and Substack is a place I make money (and they take a cut of my earnings), whereas Facebook and Instagram are free. I’m awaiting a company response and would love to hear your thoughts on this. If you’re a newsletter writer who likes another platform, I’d love to hear about it. Ghost is the one I’m most strongly considering. I still haven’t made any decisions but I wanted you to know that I’m thinking about it and disturbed by it. I’ll keep you updated and will try to make any changes as seamless as possible.
Now, let’s dive in.
Something to cook:
I’m officially out of Omsom starters after last night’s tofu sisig. Next I’m going to try the East Asian Sampler set and I’m really excited. I can’t recommend Omsom enough to mix up your home cooking. The recipes are so easy to follow and the results are really special.
After Nisha told me about Ben’s Cream Cheese, I needed to try it. I found it at Murray’s Cheese and it indeed lives up to the hype. The texture is fantastic.
I will be making more toast this week and also used it in a sandwich with spicy broccoli rabe. I had some from Rolo’s, a new restaurant/prepared food shop in Ridgewood that sent over some goodies, but it’s easy to make.
I got a new silicone spatula at Target and it’s great for cooking eggs. I made a diner style omelette with mushrooms, kale, and cheddar and it folded without issue. That’s a win.
I’ve had my eye on Grossy Pelosi’s vodka sawce for a long time (it’s consistently recommended in my cooking recaps on Instagram). I tried some from Rolo’s and it was so good, I’ll need to make it at home soon.
Something to order:
Dale brought back a veggie burger from Father Knows Best in Bushwick and it was really good. It’s a vegetable forward burger with fried onions as a topping. The fries are great too.
Oset, Natalie and I checked out Dollar Dillas at Niche Niche. The concept is delightful: dollar quesadillas (the chorizo and veggie versions are $4) and a great wine list with options starting at $40 a bottle. Two quesadillas and some guac make a great meal. It’s an occasional thing that’s so much fun (Niche Niche’s menu changes regularly) so make a reservation next time they do it. Their outdoor setup was really well heated and still open and the bathroom, wallpapered with dogs, is a real joy. Afterwards, we walked over to Lelabar in Hudson Square for a nightcap (it’s so thrilling to go more than one place on a night out).
If you’re taking more walks to celebrate the warm weather, stop at Rosewolf Coffee before a lap around Cooper Park. The elderberry hibiscus lemonade is so good (ask for less lemonade if you want it less sweet).
A sunny Friday called for a visit to Duck Duck. It’s been my neighborhood bar since 2017 and I love it so much. Bring cash, get the cheese puffs, and tip well.
Something to read:
Amanda Cohen is consistently at the forefront. Why aren’t we listening to her?
Devastated that Eisenberg’s is closing. I will miss eating grilled cheeses and breakfasts at the counter.
Diversifying coffee culture at East One Coffee Roasters
The case for cooking chopsticks
How calling for authenticity can be a burden
I went to college in Philly and buying wine was always a struggle (the state run stores had crazy hours and limited selections). The rules have changed and this map of Philly bottle shops made me so happy.
How Julia Turshen gets it done
Tate’s Bake Shop Workers were threatened with deportation if they unionize. This is despicable. Shop accordingly.
How a grief alarm kept me in order
Can small scale subscriptions like Patreon and Substack change food media for the better?
Sohla El-Waylly and Sam Sanders discuss race, food, and Bon Appetit.
Related: What really happened at Reply All?
Bon Appetit’s implosion inspires HBO Max Comedy Series. Ryan Walker Hartshorn will consult.
Very excited for Black Desserts, a new podcast hosted by Thérèse Nelson from Whetstone Mag and Black Food Folks.
How to cope with mealtime decision fatigue
Too Asian, not Asian enough: The challenges of writing restaurant reviews as a person of color
Hawa Hassan’s home cooking sounds so good, not surprisingly.
Meet The Woman Building Multigenerational Wealth With Calabrian Olives
How a Rockaways Pizza Chef Spends Her Sundays
A Quest for the Gros Michel, the Great Banana of Yesteryear
A fun history of food creators, from Julia Child to today
The most important read from new Cut EIC Lindsay Peoples Wagner: a conversation with Breonna Taylor’s Mother and Sister.
Now, let’s talk about ice cream truck orders. Planning for summer is essential.
Stephanie has her order down: I always get a Chocolate Eclair Bar off the ice cream truck. Whatever brand they happen to have.
Michelle knows a good chocolate bar is worth the mess: As for the ice cream truck, I usually go for an ice cream bar, or anything with a crunchy chocolate shell! The mechanics of eating them always gets complicated, when the ice cream is melting and the shell is sliding everywhere, lol. Just something about ice cream on a stick, and the satisfying crack of that thin chocolaty shell breaking under your teeth. Even the taste of the popsicle stick holds a certain nostalgia, doesn't it?
Jen pointed out that not all ice cream trucks have soft serve: I think ice cream trucks here might be different— they basically only have stuff you can get in the freezer at the convenience store. But I would go for either an Oreo ice cream sandwich or an orange creamsicle.
Chrissy knows that ice cream stores signal summer like nothing else: Ice-cream orders! Growing up on Long Island, we always got the Good Humor truck, and the Chocolate Eclair Ice Cream Bar was my go-to order. There's something about licking ice cream off a wooden stick that just screams summer!
This week, inspired by the Rolo’s vodka sauce, I’d love to hear your favorite pasta sauce. Get as specific as you’d like. I’m a huge cacio e pepe fan and also love a classic marinara, ideally with a little bit of spice. Reply to this email with your favorites and I’ll share them next week.
Thanks so much for reading and supporting me! I’d love to see you in class soon or over on Instagram. Paid subscribers get discounts to all classes and will receive a Passover preview on Thursday.
xo, Abigail