If You're Reading This, Go Outside
Hi friends,
Welcome to This Needs Hot Sauce (And Other Food Thoughts), a newsletter sharing something to cook, somewhere to eat out, and something to read. I'm a native New Yorker who spends far too much time thinking and reading about food. I love helping people find better things to eat and solving problems, so let me know how I can help.
It's finally sunny in Brooklyn and I'm so excited. It's time to take long walks, have picnics, drink outside, and browse all the farmer's markets. Let's dive in.
Something to cook:
First things first, did you see this week's special edition all about making the perfect cheese plate? Get cheesemonger Charlotte's best tips here and save them for your next party or trip to the supermarket. Delia did a fantastic job assembling a cheese plate for her housewarming party, with a great selection and different knives for each one. They even had cornichons. #adulthood going strong.
I always recommend this shakshuka recipe and made a version yesterday on the stovetop. The eggs cook in the covered pot in about 6 minutes. It's such a flavorful sauce and I tossed in a bit of kale, just because.
I finally made Pizza Beans! It's a recipe from Deb's latest cookbook that I've heard great things and we cooked it for a group of friends on Tuesday. It came together pretty quickly and the base of tomatoes, white beans, kale, and Italian spices would make a pretty delicious soup. Things get way more exciting with a layer of mozzarella on top.
A few notes about this recipe: Giant white beans were a bit hard to find so I used one 15 oz can of Great Northern Beans, and Cannelini would also work. We served it with garlic bread (not optional, Ian makes great garlic bread) and a salad with apples and walnuts. I also added spices, per David Lebovitz's suggestion: red pepper flakes, Italian seasoning, and oregano. Before it gets too warm, bring some pizza beans into your life.
Not a recipe, but if you have no mixers in your house, a tequila-Pellegrino-lemon juice blend more than does the job. Pair with I Like It, by Cardi B.
A hummus tip from book club hosts Missa and Deepa: add a little Old Bay seasoning to your next batch. It adds a little spice, a little salt, and a little seaside flair.
I made a really nice stir fry with broccoli, red onion, mushrooms, red pepper, and kale seasoned with garlic, ginger, turmeric, and cayenne and served it over spaghetti squash and crispy marinated tofu (an easy marinade is: a squeeze of dijon mustard, a drizzle of soy sauce, and little bit of sesame oil). Top with peanuts, scallions, bean sprouts, and hot sauce.
Something to order:
I love coffee shops and use them in lots of different situations. Here are some recent favorites and let me know of any favorites I should try next!
For reading in the morning:
Gotham Coffee Roasters in Flatiron has really good coffee and a few round tables for getting the day started.
Maman's Soho location is so pretty. On the weekends they serve a full brunch but the seats right by the window are prime real estate. If you're planning to photograph your coffee, the to-go cups are extremely cute (and well insulated, you don't even need a sleeve). Their Tribeca location has wifi and is good for working. I'm reading a book about artists gentrifying Soho in the 80s and it was the perfect setting to dive into the story. (someone please read this book, I need to discuss).
For reading or working or hanging with your friends:
I went back to Hungry Ghost, which is so well designed. The seats aren't too close together but there's definitely a chance to make friends, like this cutie Max.
For laptop hangs or happy hour:
The West is coffee shop/bar with strong wifi, Ovenly pastries and whatever beverages you need.
For an impressive yet centrally located spot to meet a friend or take a meeting:
There's an annex of El Rey, the Lower East Side coffee shop where the Lalito chef used to cook, at Todd Snyder, a fancy menswear store by Madison Square Park. The cafe's decor is extremely tasteful, with high ceilings, good lighting, and great banquettes, and it's hidden away enough that you can find a spot to hang. There's a food menu too, which I didn't try but it seems promising. Warning: you may overhear conversations about bitcoin.
For coffee to go:
Jessi's Coffee Shop has become my neighborhood go-to: $2 for a large and it's right by the subway. Friendly staff, too.
Now on to real food:
3 Guys Gyro opened on Graham a few months ago and it's not usually that busy. A few friends tried it and said good things so I gave it a shot. I accidentally skipped breakfast on Friday, so a falafel at 11:20 in the morning hit the spot. The falafel were freshly fried, the tahini sauce was very good, and the whole sandwich came out to $4.50 (!) It's owned by a sweet older couple, so if you live in the area, go say hi and grab a sandwich. The shwarma also came highly recommended.
Picnic weather is back! I spent the afternoon in Prospect Park and we grabbed food at Terrace Bagels which contains way more than the name suggests. This is a bagel shop that's also a full-fledged Italian deli. It smells like everything bagel spice and baking bread. It's a great value, too: you can get each sandwich on a hero (instead of a roll) for a dollar more, making it perfect for two people. Julia and I split the Sonny's Way with fried eggplant, fresh mozzarella cheese, roasted red peppers, broccoli rabe, sundried tomatoes and probably a whole head of garlic. I finished my half several hours ago and miss it already. Another tip: if it's after breakfast but you still want a bagel, get an everything with cream cheese and split it four ways as an appetizer.
I love trying spots that I've walked past a bunch of times. Thanks to a recommendation from Katherine, Julia, Sarah, and I got dinner at King Noodle, a Southeast Asian spot in Bushwick with a 70s basement tiki vibe. If you watched That 70s Show, you'll dig the aesthetic. The food was great, too: we tried the chili lime mixed nuts which I'm dying to recreate and the pea shoots with shallots and plum vinegar. On the noodle front, you must try the yellow curry with chunks of pumpkin and wide noodles. Julia and Sarah also loved the smokey flat noodles with a slightly sweet Chinese sausage. They're also known for their cocktails, which were fine, but I'd probably get wine or sake next time.
Something to read:
The best bloody mary mixes you can order online, and how chefs doctor them up
Related to Pete Wells' point last week: should you put ice in wine? Do you put ice in wine? I do whenever I'm visiting my grandparents in California – it's refreshing.
There's a new version of thin mints...made from chickpeas. Not sold, though Emma has made chickpea blondies and likes them.
A very opinionated smoothie recipe
Lorde on onion rings (she recommends pickling onions for the best onion rings! Same, girl, same.)
How to enjoy the alcohol that once betrayed you. I'm skeptical of this...still can't have frozen margaritas after an incident many years ago.
The best wines for spring cleaning. I needed this.
On Potatoes in Peru, all 1,300 varieties. This article reminded me of my solo trip to Salta, in the northwest corner of Argentina by the Andes. I had the most colorful and flavorful potatoes there.
This truly sounds painful (but includes a Lelabar shoutout): I ate like Oliva Pope for a week and didn't die
Not so long ago, kiwis were an exotic ingredient taking New York by storm
Could not stop reading this history of the Park Slope Food Co-op
Bon Appetit's take on crispy chickpeas, but on the stove: (will need to try)
A look behind the scenes: The unsung hero of the restaurant kitchen is the expeditor
The rise of Japanese bartending in the US
Love this headline and profile of Stephanie Izard
An updated list of black owned coffee shops in Brooklyn. So many places to try.
This Eater piece on the three black-owned businesses in gentrifying Brooklyn neighborhoods is stunning.
The Shake Shack veggie burger has gotten...not great reviews
Here for this: Khachapuri has become a quintessential New York dish (I love Georgian food, which you can read more about here)
Finally, I published my first story for Bushwick Daily all about what to order at Win Son, one of my favorite places. Read it and then head to dinner.
Last week, I asked for lunchbox suggestions and Julianne was kind enough to lend me her ZaZa lunch tote. it looks sort of like a purse and fits lots of stuff. I've been packing all the lunches and snacks and am very grateful to have it as temperatures heat up.
Amber also had some great cheese recommendations after Thursday's special edition: I myself am very partial to an incredibly buttery and creamy blue cheese (Saint agur being the classic), vintage aged cheddars (I’m never quite happy w selections of them here in the US) and a super soft and buttery triple cream Brie served on Trader Joe’s fig and olive crisps. (I agree, Trader Joe's has the best crackers. Their woven wheat thins are next level).
This week, I'd love to know: what are you packing for lunches and picnics these days? The change of season always means different foods, so reply to this email and tell me what's tasting good to you lately.
Finally, the announcement you've all been waiting for: This Needs Hot Sauce Supper Club Number 3 is at one of New York's hottest restaurants...my apartment! I'm helping a cookbook author with some recipe testing and am excited to host a dinner party featuring a few of those dishes (and other surprises) on May 16th at 7 pm with donations going towards La Puerta Abierta, the school in Guatemala where I volunteered as an English teacher. As usual, reply to this email to claim your spot and I'll get in touch with more details. I'm really excited to hang out and promise we will eat well.
Happy earth day, happy eating and thanks for reading.
xo,
Abigail