It's Time to Clean Out the Fridge
Plus, pasta sauces, vegan brunch, and thoughtful reads
Hi friends,
Welcome back to This Needs Hot Sauce. It was heartbreaking to learn of Thursday’s mass shooting in Atlanta, which targeted Asian American women. It’s been such a hard year (more than a year, actually) for the Asian American community and I’m so upset this happened. I’ve linked some reads in the Something to Read section and have supported Red Canary Song (at least four of you have joined me) and Heart of Dinner. White supremacy is violent, deadly, and pervasive. Speaking out and working against it is a collective responsibility, especially for me and my fellow white readers. If you’re in Brooklyn, North Brooklyn Mutual Aid is coordinating a Walk Safe program if you want company on a walk or errand.
As we start to emerge into this bizarre spring, I hope we can hold both excitement for the future and the weight of the past. I’m preparing to celebrate Passover with my family this weekend and thinking a lot about the themes of freedom, oppression, and spring.
Now, let’s dive in.
Something to cook:
I finally got back into a cooking groove this week and made a few good lunches. I had cream cheese toast with roasted tomatoes and za’atar and smashed chickpea salad. The chickpea salad is really simple: drain and rinse a can of chickpeas and smash them with a fork. Add in dijon mustard, paprika, a little cumin, salt, pepper, olive oil, and a little pickle brine and mix until you reach your desired consistency and taste. You could also add mayo or relish. I served it on toast with lettuce and a bit of sriracha. I wasn’t trying to replicate the flavors or texture of egg or tuna salad but rather the ease of a quick lunch. It was a success.
In class, we made cauliflower quesadillas with homemade guacamole (catch a replay here or email me if you want the full recipe). I made a huge stack of them and enjoyed the leftovers. Quesadillas reheat well in a pan or in the oven, not the microwave.
In the spirit of spring, Julianne and I cleaned out both of our fridges with dinner on Friday night. I went over with a bag of odds and ends (some extra roasted cauliflower, refried beans, half an avocado, most of a lime, etc) and we made such delicious bowls. Each bowl had cilantro lime rice (add lime zest, butter, cilantro and salt to white rice), refried beans, charred cauliflower, queso fresco, pickled jalapeños, avocado, hot sauce, and greek yogurt. The extra touch: chips and homemade salsa. Here’s the recipe, which makes a lot of salsa (don’t add the water unless you’re making chilaquiles and add more salt than you think). You broil the vegetables while rehydrating the chiles and blend everything together. Julianne sent me home with some salsa which I ate the next day. It’s so good.
On Saturday night, I made sesame noodles from Simply Julia, Julia Turshen’s latest cookbook (I recommend all her cookbooks). The recipe is inspired by Andrea Nguyen and so wonderful. I made a few substitutions (ironically, bucatini was the only long noodle I had) and it turned out so well. The leftovers are really good at room temperature.
Yesterday, Dale and I made a batch of cupcakes for his coworker’s birthday. This recipe from Joy the Baker is a favorite, just be sure to divide the batter evenly because you will not have any extra.
Something to order:
Tilden and I met up before 10:30 on a Saturday for breakfast at Guevara’s on Grand, a new-ish vegan spot from the owners of Mekelburg’s. The space is adorable with ample outdoor seating, a huge plant and pantry section and a fun menu. We split the BEC (made with Just Egg, a fairly convincing mung bean egg substitute, mushroom bacon, and vegan cheese), a dulce de leche donut, and a guava and cheese empanada. It was warm enough for iced beverages and affordable to boot. Will definitely be back.
Dale got me a bagel from 19 Cafe and I made a quick TikTok of it that somehow got huge. Always here to support New York Bagels.
We got a drink at Duck Duck last night and were so underdressed. I always forget how cold it still gets at night in early spring, but it was still nice to sit outside and people watch.
Talea, a women owned brewery and taproom, just opened in Williamsburg and the space is gorgeous. I’m working on a story about the founders and definitely recommend a visit to try some fruited sours and hazy IPAs. There’s a lot of outdoor seating and a courtyard.
Something to read:
A little BTS of how I teach cooking classes from my lil Brooklyn apartment
One year later, restaurant workers are frustrated, anxious, and angry
In Ethiopia, coffee is our bread
Loved this interview with the owner of Middle Child in Philly. Their tomato sandwich is a summer dream.
The New York Times Cooking team gave up control of its huge Facebook group. Read this thread, which is both funny and a huge failure of community management/Facebook as a platform.
The responsibility of saving restaurants should never have been ours
Nadiya Bakes is such a delight and this review will hopefully convince you to watch it. Next up, Waffles and Mochi.
Is indoor dining safe after the vaccine? I still haven’t done it, but found this helpful
Stock your pantry with these spices and condiments from BIPOC Women owned companies
The Bay Area is hooked on chic, salty, tinned fish. But its sustainability is not clear cut.
A Baltimore restaurant owner drove 6 hours to cook a favorite meal for a terminally ill customer
The Counter is hiring for several full time fellowships!
For Curanderos, cures come from the ground up
Your vaccination card will get you free Krispy Kreme
Frida wrote the Texas Monthly cover story (!!!) on Selena’s style and its influence
Julia Turshen’s new book redefines healthy in a body positive way
A guide to feta cheese, for pasta dishes and other uses
We can’t talk about healthy eating without discussing food access
Read Alejandra Ramos, who is a star: I've cooked on TV for a decade. It's time to take body-shaming off the menu
The Dangers of Bartending while Asian
This is where 150 years of Ignoring Anti-Asian Racism got us
How the history of spas and sex work fits into the conversation about the Atlanta shootings
Happening tomorrow: a free lecture on Anti-Asian Violence and Black Solidarity (h/t Ann Friedman for sharing)
Studio Atao, founded by Chef Jenny Dorsey, is a nonprofit community think tank with so many resources and events, geared towards, food, art, technology and social justice.
Now, let’s talk about your favorite pasta sauces. There are so many great options.
Julianne hits the nail on the head re: the happiness factor in a good sauce: There is something SO fun about a good vodka sauce. I also love a really delicious red sauce. I am grateful to live in a world that has delicious sauces. It's really something that brings joy these days (no I seriously do get SO excited when I eat pizza or pasta, as you know)!!
Katherine has learned an important new skill during quarantine: I started making my own pasta sauce after taking a class from Bri McKoy. It's really easy but tastes like it has been simmering for hours. Plus, it's a good excuse to open some wine. :)
My dad swears by this arrabiata sauce and I need to try it: Our current favorite (which we took up during the Pandemic) is Ina Garten's Arrabiata sauce, without the fennel. It's easy and delicious. My all-time favorite is the meat sauce I used to make from scratch.
Jamie shared some crucial dairy free subs for vodka sauce: I stan the grossypelosi vodka sawce!! I avoid dairy so I sometimes use cashew cream or buy vegan creamer. Vegan creamer doesn't always work depending on the brand, sometimes it's too sweet. But cashew cream sometimes makes it too thick/not silky enough. (I make it from scratch.) The other night I had neither so I used a combo of oat milk, coconut milk, and vegan cream cheese and it came out surprisingly well.
Jen has two favorites: At a fresh pasta restaurant I usually go for carbonara; I love how the crispy meat and creamy sauce complement the noodles. At home my favourite to make is puttanesca, it's so satisfying!
This week, I’d love to hear about your favorite thing to grill, inspired by someone sharing a grilled romaine salad in today’s cooking recap. I have no outdoor space or grill, but always love grilled halloumi, corn, romaine, and bread.
What’s your favorite thing to grill or your favorite grilled food? If you have a grill, tell me about your setup.
Reply to this email with your favorites and I’ll share the replies next week.
A quick Substack update: They released a statement last week that didn’t provide much transparency and I’m continuing to research alternatives. Always open to feedback on this.
Paid subscribers support this newsletter, get discounts on cooking classes, and bonus content. This Thursday, you’ll receive an essay about moving and kitchen memories.
Thanks for reading.
xo, Abigail
So many great reads in this one- thanks Abigail! Eater is on fire with their content these days.