The This Needs Hot Sauce Guide to Paris
Or how to fall in love with cafe culture in five days
Hi friends,
Welcome to This Needs Hot Sauce, a weekly newsletter about cooking, dining out, and making the most of it. This week’s newsletter is extra special because I recently got back from Paris. If you’re not into Paris (weird flex, but okay), scroll down for all the usual recipes/reads/NYC eats. And please save June 27th for our next happy hour. It will be outside and there will be cheese!
A Long Weekend in Paris:
To set the scene, this was my third visit to Paris, so our focus was less on sightseeing and more on walking around, chilling in parks, and eating all the things. We got a great airbnb in the Marais (perfect for groups of 4).
You know this already, but the food in Paris is so good! The cheese is made from raw milk, the baguettes have a crust like none I’ve had here, and the wine is affordable and delicious (there were so many wines I didn’t recognize and I would just google the names to see what region of France it was from). Italian food is quite popular in Paris and as a vegetarian, pasta was often my best/only option (some things are international). By day four, we were desperate for some veggies and happy to have Lebanese food, falafel and even a green juice. You have to ask for your check in Paris so lingering is encouraged. But when it comes to pastries or baguette, nothing beats grabbing some to go and eating in a park.
Eats:
We started most days with a cafe hang. The best part of these cafes is the people watching and the absolute lack of pressure to leave. You can bring a book or magazine and sit for hours with a petit dejuener of coffee, a fresh squeezed orange juice, a baguette with butter and jam and a croissant or pain au chocolat. Vacation life is good. These same cafes are also the perfect spot for a pre dinner drink or an afternoon espresso.
Some fun cafes that are worth a visit: Cafe Charlot, Le Fronde, Le Pick Clops, Le Oken.
Lunch was a meandering affair, depending on our schedule, but most of our lunches were more grab and go. I loved getting crepes at the Breizh Epicerie, which is the to go option of a popular restaurant, and of course, couldn’t skip a visit to L’As du Falafel. Get it spicy, with eggplant and go at an off time to avoid the line.
Night time:
We had so much fun each night, often eating in multiple locations. One night we grabbed a drink at le Perchoir, a rooftop bar that Celine took us on my last trip with Nicole (go to the one on Rue Crespin du Gast), then got burrata and orange wine at La Buvette (thanks to Rachel for the rec) and then walked 30 minutes to a bistro for escargot and a proper dinner (I called ahead during our walk and they held a table for us).
Another night, we went to dinner in La Pigalle with Jules and Adelie after visiting some art galleries in Saint Germain de Pres. Faggio Osteria is such a cozy neighborhood spot and you should definitely order the trofie al pesto (this pasta shape was everywhere and I’m convinced it’s the next big pasta trend in America) and some olives.
Julia and I love oysters and we had Huiterie Regis on our list. They pretty much only serve oysters and the minimum order is a dozen per person. They were the best oysters I’ve ever had (and huge). We had them with baguette and salted butter and some sancerre. Perfection. Note: this place is tiny so go early to avoid a wait. Later that night, we visited a bar behind a taco shop called Candelaria at Candelaria Taqueria. The drinks were so good and one of them had spicy tequila! We got there too late to try the tacos.
Lots of things are closed on Sundays in Paris so we made dinner reservations at Le Petit Italien, which Julianne and Ian visited on their last trip (it’s the same owners as Chez Janou). The pasta is amazing and the atmosphere is even better. Try the trofie al pesto (again) and the linguine al vongole.
Chez Janou is a Provencal restaurant that we wound up visiting twice. Julia’s boss had recommended it and we first walked by to find it packed on a Friday. We came back on a Sunday to get dessert (their chocolate mousse is legendary and served in a giant urn). After hanging for hours, we asked for a reservation on our final night and got a spot in the notebook. Our last dinner of the trip was so special. We had house specialties like baked goat cheese with tomato, ratatouille, mussels, and duck, plus the delicious house wine and more chocolate mousse. We didn’t leave till after 1 am and all felt so satisfied. Visit Chez Janou next time you’re in Paris, but not on a friday or saturday if you can avoid it.
A note on planning: I planned very little before this trip. There are certain tasting menu focused restaurants that require advance reservations, but that’s not my favorite way to eat and it means you’ll have a more rigid schedule during your trip. Since we were staying in an area with lots of choices, it was easy to make plans for later in the trip once we had a lay of the land. We would stop by and see if they had availability for the next night. It worked every time.
The most popular places that are on every guide (Du Pain et des idees which I loved last time but this time was sold out of nearly everything when I visited, the cocktail bar Little Red Door) had lines out of the door. I heard David Lebovitz, a blogger and author who lives in Paris, speak at the 92nd street Y a few years ago and one thing that stuck with me was his take on finding “the best” while traveling. He lives in a less touristy neighborhood in Paris and his best baguette is a local spot that he can visit nearly every day. Something like a baguette or a croissant is a part of daily life and not always something to travel 45 minutes to find (imagine doing that for your morning coffee). As a visitor, of course, it’s fun to sample some of the best spots but I found that our favorite places were within our neighborhood and we visited them again and again (our Airbnb host told us the best bakery on the block and warned us that we would be sad since it’s closed sundays, he was 100% right). I love David’s blog and it always has great Paris recs.
Parisian dinner time is 9 pm or later. Restaurants only reopen for dinner at 7 and they’re pretty empty till around 9, unless it’s a cafe that’s open all day. And I made a foursquare list of my favorite spots if you’ll be there soon.
Here are my top five food experiences in Paris. I would recommend these to anyone visiting soon.
Baguette and croissants from Huré, closed sundays. We made a feast right when we got off the plane (see above) and the bread with cheese and fruit was insane.
The burrata at La Buvette. It’s topped with orange zest, olive oil, and salt and put other burrata to shame. (see it here)
The trofie al pesto at le Petit Italian. It was so basily and clung perfectly to every noodle.
Chez Janou chocolate mousse. I don’t know how to explain the little chocolate shavings inside this chocolate mousse but wow, it’s a masterpiece.
Oysters that were sweet and briny.
Activities:
Aside from eating, there’s a lot to do in Paris. Some of my general favorites are the Musee d’Orsay and this time Julia and I went to the Musée de la Chasses et de la nature, a taxidermy museum that’s delightfully weird. Julianne, Julia and I went thrifting at Kilo Shop, where everything is priced by weight (so much fun). We walked by Notre Dame, which looks almost the same from the front with visible damage from the side and back. We hid from a rainstorm at Marché des Enfant Rouges, a covered market with groceries and food stalls and took a yoga class at Caelo on Celine’s recommendation. And Paris’s park game is top notch. I love Place de Vosges but a great new discovery was Jardin des Rosier-Joseph Migneret, named for a resistance fighter who tried to save a bunch of children from deportation to Auschwitz, a rec from Julia’s friend Jules. It’s right near L’As du Falafel and a little hidden from the street, so it’s perfectly quiet. And of course, sitting by the Seine is a must.
We also took a day trip to Giverny to see Monet’s house and gardens. The gardens were beautiful and the water lilies were in bloom. Monet also had a great kitchen and was really into Japanese art and ceramics. You don’t need much time in Giverny so book the train in advance and give yourself 2 or 3 hours (people under 26 get a lower fare!). The food there is not great, so try to go between mealtimes and get your cab driver’s number to get a ride back to the station.
Your questions (via Instagram, where I diligently documented this trip):
Why doesn’t NYC have the whole cafe thing down yet? This is a tough one and I think so much of it has to do with dining culture and the concept of leisure. A running joke we had during the trip was that our French friends could have taken us to the most mediocre local spots and we still would have been impressed. There’s something magical in the combo of outdoor seating (with heatlamps for cooler months), a simple menu, and no hurry to go on to the next thing. There’s also a tradition (which used to be a law) of keeping baguette prices very low because they’re considered a necessity. I would love to see more outdoor seating in New York and will be doing my best to leave more space in my days for lingering. Join me?
How big are the spritzes in Paris? New York Times be damned, they are the size of your head.
Can we go back? Literally any day. This was a truly fantastic trip, with incredible traveling companions and it was a much needed time to relax and explore.
Something to cook:
Before we left, Julia and I made a dinner that we knew we wouldn’t find in Paris: tofu wraps with mango salsa and peanut sauce. The days before a trip are always full of last minute errands (I had to go to three stores for travel size facewash) so it was great to make something fresh and tasty.
Once we were back home, we made broccoli with lemony white beans which was so refreshing. We tossed it with some fresh tortellini and had a lovely dinner.
Hardly a recipe, but a reminder that a collection of snacks eaten on a roof is really the best. This is the weather we wait all year for and I am intent on soaking it up. Lizzi and I noshed on cheese, crackers, cucumbers, radishes, sugar snap peas, hummus and olives with some cider and brews. Summer time perfection.
Something to order (in New York):
Before we left for Paris, we had Julianne’s birthday dinner at Kiki’s in the Lower East Side. It’s a greek spot that’s perfect for groups. They have lots of dips to share (the tzatziki and fava bean ones were the favorites, greek salad for days, spiced fries, and cheap carafes of wine. I’m not a huge cheescake fan but theirs is amazing. It’s not cooked and comes with a great strawberry topping. If you go to Kiki’s with only a few people, there’s usually a wait, so come early and get a drink at 169 Bar while you wait.
Clare was in town and I got to meet her and Frida at Hunky Dory, which is so lovely on a weekday. We split a bunch of breakfast-y things including the tiny pancakes, the hash, the everything bagel smashed cucumbers, and the egg sandwich. It was all so good and they have WiFI so I stuck around to do some work after.
There was no mexican food in Paris, so I was thrilled to get a quesadilla from Los Tacos once I got back. You have to ask them for extra of the red hot sauce, the green one does not compare (Dale and I always pick up takeout and we have gone back to get extra hot sauce).
Dale and I went to Misi for lunch on Friday. It was such a treat and made the post vacation transition easier since I had something to look forward to. We love Lilia and had a wonderful experience at Misi. The space is really gorgeous in the day time, so try going for lunch when reservations are way easier to get. I walked across the Williamsburg bridge from an appointment in Manhattan which definitely worked up an appetite. Some must orders are the fettuccine with buffalo butter, cheese and pepper, the mandilli with pesto, and the gelato. We got the strawberries and cream special and I don’t think you can go wrong. I’d skip the ricotta toast next time–the ricotta was too thick and one note. As with Lilia, the service was great, there’s free sparkling water, and a great wine and cocktail list. If summer fridays are a thing where you work or you’re looking to play hooky, book lunch at Misi!
I was wandering in the West Village on Saturday evening and decided to check out the new Bar Pisellino. It was packed, but I got a spot at the bar and had a quick Sbagliato (campari, vermouth, and prosecco) with some olives. The space is gorgeous and the servers are wearing the coolest jackets. It was all hands on deck, even the owner was washing dishes and they sold out of the lemon sorbet drink by 6 p.m.
Something to read:
Let me convince you to take a lunch break today.
Longtime Los Angeles residents try a buzzy new chicken spot
Agree 100%: creating a vibe in a restaurant is just as important as the food
Summer cooking ideas from Dinner: a love story
If you want to be happy, eat healthy but not too healthy
Read this hot and very correct take on diversity and the beard awards.
How the people of Prospect Heights saved Ode to Babel from gentrification
Want to try this new Georgian restaurant in Chelsea (I love Georgian food)
What’s the deal with Paul Newman lemonade? I grew up on his marinara.
Kerry Diamond is selling Smith Canteen in Carroll Gardens
I’ve watched Always be my Maybe twice now and it’s a delight that nails the details.
Katz’s Deli is holding a fake orgasm contest to celebrate the 30th anniversary of When Harry Met Sally.
Why do we turn into snack maniacs at work? This rings so true.
So many great new bakeries to check out.
Rest in power, Chef Leah Chase. Read her obituary.
NYC Restaurants Still Treat Sober People Like Garbage, And It Needs to Stop
Inside a graduation dinner at the wonderful Emma’s Torch, where we hosted our March event (see highlight here).
Hunky Dory is worth a visit for the food/vibes, but its low waste cocktail program is also very impressive.
Not convinced: the underrated pleasures of eating dinner early.
Lastly, my first ever print story came out in Edible Queens. It’s all about Arada Moonroj of Lamoon Thai, a wonderful restaurant with very personal food. I’ve been working on this story since last fall and it’s so exciting to see it in print/on screens.
This week, I want to get back to basics: what’s your favorite cereal? I babysit on the weekends and often start my Saturdays with a bowl of honey nut cheerios. Growing up, honey bunches of oats were my favorites. Let’s get nostalgic, reply to this email with your favorites and milk preferences (mixes are allowed).
Thanks for sticking with this super long edition of This Needs Hot Sauce and for giving me such great recs for Paris! I appreciate you all so much.
Happy eating and thanks for reading.
xo, Abigail