It snowed last night and I can still see a small dusting out the window. We’ve reached holiday party season. On Saturday, I went to two birthday parties, an annual tradition for two dear friends. I just missed the A train heading to Brooklyn and had to wait for 11 minutes (I saw it drive away, it was painful). Luckily, there was a talented trumpet player performing holiday songs on the platform, from Jingle Bell Rock to Let It Snow. The time passed so much more quickly and I venmoed him a thank you for making the wait so pleasant. It can feel like a slog to shuffle from event to event but it’s also very special to have reasons to gather and celebrate. And take rapid tests before you go!
Next week’s newsletter will be the last Monday one of the year (I’m taking the last week of the year off) and it’s where we will discuss our favorite meals of the year (whether cooked or at a restaurant). This is another TNHS tradition and I’m excited to recap the year together! You can send in your selections by replying to this email or leaving a comment.
Thursday’s newsletter will be about entertaining and having people over, with some tips for upcoming holiday parties. Subscribers also get personalized recommendations if you need a hand with picking out gifts or restaurants to bring your parents/clients/dates to!
Now, let’s dive in.
Something to cook:
I made a big pan of broccoli egg fried rice for dinner on Friday and it hit the spot (I used a shallot instead of scallions and it worked well). I also baked some tofu with cornstarch to serve on top. It’s an easy meal I’ve been making for years and I always enjoy it.
Last week’s cooking recap had me craving a quesadilla and I had to try out my new nonstick pan from Misen (a Black Friday purchase I’m liking so far). I made a simple quesadilla and topped it with a cucumber avocado salad with chili flakes and vinegar.
Teal came over to see our apartment and we had some pre dinner snacks and bubbly. I put out storebought hummus, olives, and cheese. You can make any hummus fancier and more delicious with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of za’atar! Store bought is fine!
Are you on Bonne Maman advent calendar TikTok? I love watching people try the different jams and it partially inspired last night’s snack of an english muffin with butter and jam (Bonne Maman strawberry). I do half with butter and jam, half with butter and Maldon salt.
Something to order:
There is something healing about chips, salsa, and a good gossip session. Julia and Julianne and I had a very important dinner at Taqueria Casa Imelda in South Williamsburg. The salsa is so good and the black bean burrito was a great dinner (and lunch the next day). Get a chips and salsa session on your calendar for a great catchup.
Melissa invited to lunch at One Fifth by Marc Forgione (he’s the chef behind Peasant where we went for my birthday dinner). They just started serving lunch and have a prix fixe where you can choose two items for $33 (our meal was comped minus gratuity). We tried the seasonal pinsa with delicata squash, goat cheese, and pine nuts, a bracing and bitter chicory salad with walnuts, and smoked spaghetti with clams. I’ll definitely be back for their weekday happy hour which includes $5 negronis until 6!
Dale and I took Teal to Mesa Coyoacan, one of our favorite spots. We love their salsas and guacamole and I always get the mushroom tacos. Kelli met us too for a round of mezcal margaritas!
Leslie and I got coffee at Little Zelda in Crown Heights and the playlist was mostly Selena Gomez songs, which was a plus.
Frida celebrated her birthday in the backroom at Sisters in Clinton Hill which was a blast. That same night, Hillary had a party at her stunning apartment and Julia, Julianne, and I gifted her the most cheerful cutting board (it is always sold out but I found it on SSENSE and Big Night sells them too) and cheese knives and an Italian Jewish cookbook. I love putting together gifts that really speak to a person!
Something to read:
I share more reads in Thursday’s newsletter for paid subscribers
Amethyst Ganaway is the rising culinary star honoring the roots of Black food
How the Billion Oyster Project uses recycled oyster shells to clean New York’s harbors
Here’s how to safely ship holiday treats
The most recent Abbott Elementary episode had me screaming at my tv! Quinta Brunson is a genius.
Drag Queens are fearing for their lives as right wing attacks target their events
Sana Javeri Kadri shares her beauty uniform! I love Diaspora Co. (the best pepper) and they have beautiful gifts (and a New York pop up right now).
Why guavaberry liqueur deserves a spot on your shelf
How Bring It On Shocked Hollywood
A beautiful obituary for the founder of the legendary Versailles restaurant in Miami
How did vodka get more popular than gin?
I answered some fun food questions for the latest issue of Simmer
Really good pizza in Puerto Rico
Deb Perelman could do this forever. Her comments about cooking for herself vs. her kids are so interesting.
Why the Price of Your Wine-By-The-Glass Might Be Going Up (it’s inflation)
How inflation is changing grocery shopping habits
A few White Lotus links (I’m still thinking about that finale):
I’m rooting for Lucia and Mia! Beatrice Grannò and Simona Tabasco Are Savoring the Moment
Ariana Grande interviews Jennifer Coolidge
How Meghann Fahy Became the Breakout Star of The White Lotus
Now, time for soup! My big soup storage tip is to freeze it in small portions (I use Talenti jars) so it’s quicker to defrost. Toppings and a side of bread/chips/cornbread are essential. Here are your favorites (I’ve bookmarked so many of these).:
Gillian: The two soups that are always in my winter rotation are Helen Rosner's Roberto Soup and Melissa Clark's seared broccoli soup. Here in Rome I use broccolo romano (and sometimes guanciale if I have some)
My pantry vegetarian soup is a Thai carrot soup that is a riff on this. I often skip the peanut butter and I always use coconut milk and a dry Thai spice blend I bought at Bourough Market but one of these would work.
Emily: My top 3 fave soup recipes right now:
Ginger Sweet Potato and Coconut Milk Stew with Lentils and Kale (The First Mess)
Spinach & Cilantro Soup With Tahini & Lemon From Samin Nosrat (Food52)
Vegan Broccoli Potato Soup (Sweet Simple Vegan)
Julia: The Smitten Kitchen Braised Chickpea Stew!
Sandra: My favorite soup in the world is cold borscht. It’s traditionally vegetarian and I admit it’s a summer dish. The best parts are the garnishes: cold, diced cucumbers, sour cream, dill (duh), and diced hard boiled eggs. My only tip for borshct cooking is to shred the beets because that gives them such a good texture. Basically, prepare to have red hands for a day or use gloves.
Mia: Melissa Clark’s red lentil soup with lemon! And a side of naan always.
Alice: Soondubu! Tomato basil!
This week, I’d love to hear about your favorite meals of the year! And I hope you’re having a good week so far!
xo, Abigail
I should have submitted this for top soups - but the red lentil coconut curry we made in August’s meal prep class was divine! I honestly couldn’t wait to eat leftovers of that each night.
I also made this cookie recipe recently for a cookie swap and while the swap wasn’t a competition, I’m pretty confident I won. It was also my first time browning butter and I was terrified. https://takestwoeggs.com/browned-butter-miso-chocolate-chip-cookies/
Honorable mentions to the fluffy pancake at Rule of Thirds and the wagyu omakase at Hyun, both of which I’ve treated myself to multiple times this year 💸
This year in cooking has been defined by getting a CSA delivery and having to get creative to use everything in time, and to transform some of the stuff I don't like as much into something I do. Some faves:
This soup: https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/peppercorn_coconut_broth_84709
A whole lot of tofu banh mi, after we got a load of carrots and radishes at once and I made two big jars of quick pickles
Caramel apples. I chose this CSA because it gives us a ton of varieties of apple all fall, and as much as I love apples I'm a LITTLE overwhelmed! An improvised stovetop caramel on apple slices and peanut butter pretzels was the answer one night when my sweet tooth was demanding something.